Friction free oil/engine treatments....
As soon as you talk to anyone about these you are likely to encounter two types of answer... three in you count a quick smack in the mouth...
1... Snake oil.... Hokum.... Don' need it.... or any other similar comment before they launch into their reasoning behind this.....
2... I've used it.... sometimes this does comes with a "but"..
So my thoughts......
I have looked at many engine treatments over the years, especially those that are used in a racing environment.... Molyslip, STP, Wynn's all have their place in engine longevity...
There has been, though, a few brands that are just hype and even the perennial "Slick 50" and it's earlier derivatives seizing an engine or three due to the fact that the size of the PTFE molecules were larger that the oil filter mesh pores.....
Interesting fact about PTFE.... if you heat it past 536°F it turns into a very nasty gas... check this out.....
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1829&aid=2874
Also another, similar, page states "Recent findings show that 95% of Americans have detectable levels of
Teflon-related chemicals in their blood" and that's not a good thing...
My First Honda CX500 was one of the original batch which had the wrong big end shells fitted and hence were known for seizing easily..... So I tried some American stuff called, inventively, TMT (The Motor Treatment)... which was basically graphite based.. Which I must admit worked really well in increasing gas mileage.... anything graphite based has its limitations
But since I stumbled across ZX1 many years, and hundreds of thousands of miles, ago I have used it in everything I have owned....
For me it's main strength is it's versatility.. You can add it at any time, it does not need clean/new oil... and you can add it to, almost, anything...
As it's a "Modified Oil" all the "friction free" element needs is a carrier.... so you can put it in the engine, in the petrol, in the radiator, into hydraulic fluid and even brake/clutch fluid... that's something not a lot of the others can do..
So long as it makes contact with a metallic surface it will do its job..... and as it mechanically bonds with metal at about 70 deg it stays there even after the oil/fluid change....
One of my first uses for ZX1 was in a Mitsubishi Colt... the model before they went hatchback.... Nice car but had not been that well looked after...
So I am driving home from London to Ipswich and as I am going through Chelmsford the oil light comes on... not good as its a pressure light not a "low level" light on these...
So... 40 miles from home and no oil pressure... As my Father was still alive and we had a breakdown truck I decided to carry on home... reasoning behind this was that the engine was probably toast so the nearer I was to home the less it needed to be towed...
The engine/fuel system had been treated about a 1000 miles before this and I am happy to say that I just drove the car all the way home... not a problem.... not a sound.... added new oil and drove it around for another two years before I sold it... Kind of makes you think "Yea this stuff does work".
The original formula was invented for drilling heads on the oil rigs etc... If you want any info on this and the range of products they make now... head over to...
http://www.team-zx1.com/
Hope you do because you will find a review I did on a Kawasaki ZX10 compression over time... a short lived trial for a reason you will find when reading...
ZX1 has been a standard part of my maintenance regime for decade... cars, motorcycles, strimmer heads, hedge trimmer blades, lawnmowers even my central heating system.. ie if it moves and is metal..
Word of warning though... don't put it in a new vehicle... don't put it in an all metal torque converter or all metal clutch etc... and when putting it in a engine make sure you run it for at least 20 mins/drive for at least 40 miles or it will smoke like a train....
DO NOT PUT IT IN - DRIVE 1/2 MILE DOWN THE ROAD TO GET THE PAPER/MILK/ETC... basically as it bonds at 70 deg a quick trip will heat up the area around the rings more than anywhere else and if you switch of the engine the oil around the rings will bond there only and make a very smooth "blow by" area.... trust me I did this with a Suzuki 1150EFE and it billowed smoke for days until it sorted itself out....
Originally they only made the "treatment" but nowadays they have a nice range of products.... I love the new grease (the original grease was a bit pants in that it disappeared to quickly) its all red and sparkly and is superb in wheel bearings....
The little pin oilier is another winner, especially on a motorcycle, so easy to lube levers, footrests, linkages, anything that moves really... Its also great in lubing cables and unlike WD40 it does not freeze in winter or affect to cable lining.
The C60 micro spray is, for me, the oddest one... I suppose because I use the pin oilier in most places you would use the spray... will say its great with sliding doors, windows etc... but I mainly use it as a "soak" to degrease and clean stuff.
Works well with carbs... especially if you heat them up with a blow gun and dunk them again after cleaning... really helps to give a smooth slide action
Last comment... I have bought many treatment bottles (especially back in the day when QVC used to sell a twin pack) and give them to people to try out for themselves... saying only "if you don't think it works don't pay me" and so far everybody has paid me...
There are drawbacks with this product that I am not going to go into here as I am sure that someone will add a comment about this and just want to hear who says what first, before adding my thoughts and findings....
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